Fashion devotees basked in sunny weather and strong, sometimes whimsical collections as London Fashion Week neared its climax Sunday with runway shows by Roland Mouret, Victoria Beckham, Simone Rocha and others throughout the city.
A fleet of black chauffeured Mercedes whisked VIPs from venue to venue, but those who preferred to walk saw the British capital at its best, with glimpses of the street style that helps give London its credibility in the fashion competition with Paris, New York and Milan.
Two days of shows remain, with Burberry and Christopher Kane on tap.
Roland Mouret’s collecton full of optimism, despite woes
View this post on Instagram
Bohème luxury: our Spring Summer ‘20 runway is an evolution of signature draping and folding, capturing the eclectic Roland Mouret woman’s style and identity. Flat fabrics come to life through effortless, crisp pleating; volumes emanate from feminine dresses that play on a contrast of colour. #RolandMouret #RolandMouretSS20 #LFW
Roland Mouret’s spring 2020 collection was inspired by his observation of a worrying symmetry between New York in the ‘80s, enamored of its own affluent progressiveness while on the verge of bankruptcy, and today’s social, environmental and political turbulence.
“It was a time when people were dressing up amazingly while people were dying in the street. Now we have the same kind of interaction through our media. You go from the new launch at Selfridges and the next day there’s someone dying,” he said after the show in a rarely seen courtyard at the Royal Academy of Arts.
Despite that bleak starting point, his show was full of optimistic, even dreamy colours cut in relaxed silhouettes, with lots of shimmering sequins.
The designer, who made his name with the figure-hugging Galaxy dress he debuted in 2005, and which is still in production today, sent out a collection that nodded to the ‘80s via soft tailoring (a revolutionary concept led by Giorgio Armani and made famous by Richard Gere in American Gigolo), wide shoulders and relaxed American sportswear staples. Those were reframed by Mouret as a low-slung blue sequin skirt worn with a white blouse and a rope belt that looked like it was filched from the nearest yacht.
The wolves of Wall Street were alluded to through the corporate appeal of checked suits, the double-pleated fronts on gorgeously fluid wide-legged trousers and stock broker-approved wide lapels that were deployed across jackets and coats. The motif especially stood out on an oyster sequin blazer with a contrasting blue lapel, which was teamed with a blush pink sequin skirt and a white bohemian blouse.
View this post on Instagram
“The collection takes inspiration from that 80s era in New York during the financial crack when the city almost went bankrupt. During those moments, we reinvent and define ourselves, changing fears into something positive that in turn brings newness. What is luxury in times of crisis? It’s style.” – Roland Mouret #RolandMouret #RolandMouretSS20 #LFW